Established 1818

The American prep style has dominated men’s wear for a while now, this is nothing new. All you have to do is pick up a copy of GQ, Details, or Esquire or have a look at Scott Schuman’s blog, The Sartorialist for confirmation. Everyone from J. Crew to J. Press have masterfully availed themselves of this trend, and though these retailers are fantastic, I’d like to give a shout out to your grandpa’s favorite clothier, Brooks Brothers. Being that it was started in 1818, Brooks Brothers has the distinction of being the oldest retailer in the United States. That’s right, the brothers has been selling clothes to American men since James Monroe, our fifth president was in office. So why have they been around so long? Because they make clothes men look good in at a price that’s affordable, and if you love something they make, when it’s threadbare and broken down, they’ll still be making it. As an example of the awesomeness of Brooks Brothers, I present the oxford cloth button collar shirt.

To understand the button down shirt you have to understand its history. It was first developed as a riding shirt for polo players; their collars flapped in the wind as they rode and evidently that was just unacceptable, so they secured them with buttons. In 1896 Brooks Brothers brought this style to the young republic as a sport shirt, and back then, men actually played sports in those shirts. The other essential characteristic of this shirt, and a nod to its sporting heritage is the oxford cloth from which it’s made. Oxford cloth is a thick, knobby fabric that feels good to wear and looks great once worn in. It lacks the sheen and formality of a standard dress shirt, making the oxford cloth button down perfect to wear with a pair of beat-in 501s, New Standards or chinos.

Brooks Brothers was the first manufacturer to make these shirts in the United States and in my opinion, still the best value for the money. First reason they are the best value, you can find them on sale about four times a year for $50. Secondly, they come in four fits, Traditional (two-man tent), Regular (one-man tent), Slim Fit (regular people), Extra Slim Fit (slim people). Lastly, they are extremely well made and made in the USA. So next time you’re looking for a new collared shirt, skip The Gap or Banana Republic and head over to your grandpa’s favorite shop, Brooks Brothers.

High Violet

Grade: A-

Standout Tracks: Terrible Love Anyone’s Ghost, Little Faith, Lemonworld

High Violet is an uneasy affair about aging, providing, settling down and settling into a man’s role as grown man. The eleven-track record is stormy, seething with frustration and anxiety, but like the good Midwestern men they are, they keep it controlled, they never yell or let anything get too out of hand. They are grown men after all and they have to provide a good example for their families. They seem to want to cry out but are never willing or able to allow themselves that moment. High Violet is at all times restrained and this restraint is echoed in the meticulous production, the muted drums, echoing vocals, atmospheric guitars and creeping strings. Half talking half singing his words, Matt Berninger’s baritone has a monochromatic quality that reinforces the record's restraint.For most of the record Bryan Devendorf trades crashing cymbals for muted, urgent tom riffs. He Hammers his drum kit throughout, laying down what sounds like heavy mortar fire for a far-off war. Devendorf’s complex rhythms are the perfect counterpoint to Berninger’s minimal delivery and this tense juxtaposition forms the heart of High Violet. Scott Devendorf’s bass riffs move back and forth through his brother’s drumming like they were made by the same person. The twins, Aaron and Bryce Dessner weave a thick cloth of guitar sound that’s ultimately indispensable. At times their creations sparkle and at times they buzz and hiss but they never stray too far from their masters and they never make a scene.

Strangely, when I first listened to High Violet I realized that these are the same kind of men that wrote golden era country music and in my mind carries more of its heart and soul then does modern pop-country. It’s been repackaged by another generation and it carries this generation’s musical sensibilities but it’s honest in a way that the old country singers and songwriters were. High Violet is the sound of a great band operating at the fullness of its capacity during the height of its relevance. It’s troubled music for a troubled time and it’s well worth a long, attentive listen.