Mr. Hartmann is old school in every way. He doesn’t compromise on quality and he doesn’t mince words. He’s the kind of guy you want tailoring your clothes. I had a chance to interview him a few months back and this is what he has to say about himself and his craft.
You can find him in his small shop in Bellevue, across from Bellevue Square. The address is 810 102nd NE Bellevue. Give him a call at 425-455-3538.
Where are you from?
Berlin Germany
Who taught you your craft?
Apprenticed in 1957, also both parents were Tailors.
How long have you been a tailor?
Since 1960.
What are the most common mistakes you see tailors make?
Don’t listen to Customers.
What are the most common mistakes you see most men make in the fit of their clothes?
Don’t want to make the financial commitment to make the right impression
How should a jacket fit?
Silhouette and still comfortable
How should trousers fit?
Flattering look Easy comfortable but not baggy.
How should a dress shirt fit?
Proper fit in shoulder. Tapered but not too tight, comfortable but not baggy.
What can you do to a jacket to make it fit, what can’t you do?
Sometimes total re-cut with body and sleeves
What can you do to a shirt to make it fit, what can’t you do?
Taper shorten sleeves if necessary.
If a guy sees a pair of trousers at the mall and size 34 is too small and size 35 is too big which is easiest for you to modify and have it look good, the one that’s too small or the one that’s too big?
If seat is small let out, if athletically built take waist in.
After so many years of dismantling and reassembling clothing, what brands do you see that are well made, which ones are not so well made or is there any real trend?
Look for genuine Italian labels not suits with Italian names but made places other than Italy.
Are the fancy Italian brands like Armani and Dolce and Gabana really worth the extra expense?
Not always.
What should a guy look for in a quality jacket?
The more handwork the better, engineered suits are mass-produced not much thought went into quality. Shoulders should not break, must look smooth, sleeves must be set by hand and hang right.
What should a guy look for in a quality shirt?
Perfect collar treatment, Single needle construction
What should a guy look for in a quality pair of trousers?
Look inside Finish inside Trousers right lining inside, right webbing.
